I love the Red Hook Ball Fields when the sun is out and the South American food stands are in full operation (the 2010 season began May 1st). While I'll usually take a huarache (a sort of fried masa tortilla with assorted meats, cheese, and various toppings that makes a Calexico burrito look like a shrunken twinkie) or a couple tacos with some chorizo or bistec, my first go-to is always one and the same: ceviche out of a van. This happens at the Ecuadorian Rojas family ceviche stand at the far end of the lineup on Bay Street. Things get Gonzo at this little shack.