Homemade bacon is easy, but it requires space and time. The basic idea is to bury the belly in a combination of salt, sugar, and spices, and to leave it that way for four days or up to a week. After that, you rinse, let it dry out, and throw it in the smoker for as long as you want. This is the recipe that on the Judges' Award at the Brooklyn Bacon Takedown in Williamsburg.

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Here's a little $120 suckling pig from Los Paisanos butcher on Brooklyn's Smith Street in Cobble Hill. It was brined, stuffed with apples and clove-studded onions and then barbecued for 5 hours over cherry wood and hardwood charcoal. Continuous basting of reduced NY State apple cider.